“Chaushi”, Razlog, Blagoevgrad Province, Bulgaria

Razlog hosts traditional masquerade games for the Surva holiday, and while the masked are typically called ‘kukeri,’ they have different names in different regions of Bulgaria. In Razlog, the locals call them “starci” or “chaushi”, hence the name of the masquerade “Starchevata”. Their costumes are made of goatskin, and a conical mask that is topped with a pony tail. Their mask, which can reach 7 feet tall, is called a “chuchulka” and their horsetail whip is called “bich.” An important element of the costumes are the bells, which can weigh up to 110 pounds. Each “chaush” usually carries four bells.

It is widely believed that the masked chase evil forces and winter – with their frightening masks, they embody chaos and evil and at the same time repel them, helping stimulate the fertility of plants, animals and humans.

In the past, “chaush” were only allowed to be played by boys. After participating in the masquerade games, the boys become men fit to marry and have families – the ritual was a form of initiation that they go through.

The leader and organizer of the group is the “elder”, he is usually married, although he is also a young man. He is dressed in a festive men’s winter costume, he does not have a face mask.

Today, we met with a chaush named Dara. This year her group had 87 masked chaush. Her father is the group elder, following in the footsteps of his father and grandfather. In their workshop, photos of Dara’s grandfather and great grandfather decorate the walls in memorialization. Her mother brings us chai and cooks us a warm meal as her father cuts us homemade cheese. As we eat, Dara shows us video tapes of Razlog’s “Starchevata” games through the years. Their collection of footage from Razlog is the most extensive I have ever seen, with the earliest videos dating back to 1964. Swipe to see some footage compliments of Dara. Thank you again for this beautiful experience.